Northern Sardinia 🇮🇹

Summary 🧐

Northern sardinia is a stunning destination with Caribbean-like waters and rugged landscapes, but it requires a bit of strategy to enjoy fully without breaking the bank. We split our trip into two parts: basing ourselves in Palau to explore the Costa Smeralda and La Maddalena archipelago, and then finishing with a totally relaxed stay at a spa hotel in Isola Rossa. The island offers a mix of ultra-luxury and rustic nature. While the beaches are incredible, the costs can be steep, and the wind plays a huge role in daily planning. Lots of fresh seafood too!

General Tips 👏

• Rent a car with full insurance because the roads, especially those leading to beaches, are often unpaved and in poor condition.
• Book boat tours well in advance during peak season, we managed to get one last minute, but options were limited.
• Always call boat rental companies ahead of time to check wind conditions before heading to the harbour.
• Be prepared for high prices, as the island is very expensive for what it offers.
• Bring cash for parking meters and coin-operated beach showers.
• Pack water shoes (neoprene) as many of the best coves have rocky entries.
• Some beaches on Maddalena island like Cala Coticcio are not accessible by car and you must book a mandatory guide to hike there.

Budget 💸

Sardinia is very pricey. We found huge disparities in costs depending on where we went. For example, a day at Liscia Ruja cost us 100 EUR just for parking and an umbrella spot. However, we also found affordable options like Spiaggia Mannena where a set cost 35 EUR. Dining in tourist hubs like Santa Teresa Gallura was overpriced, while inland agriturismos offered great value.

Transportation 🚃

A car is absolutely essential here, and we had ours for the whole trip which was amazing. Driving inland offers incredible views that you just don't get from the coast. We rented ours at Olbia airport. Expect queues late at night, we waited a long time at Avis before switching to Europcar (thanks free cancellation) to save time. Driving takes patience due to speed bumps and narrow roads. For the La Maddalena archipelago, the ferries run frequently from Palau and are easy to use (no booking required)

Food 🍗

Food was overall great and tasty, but also quite expensive. Definitely try myrtle liqueur, pane guttiau and seadas (fried cheese pastry with honey).

• Don's BBQ: Inland agriturismo with great view doing a daily american-style BBQ. Quite odd but very good!
• Il Ghiottone (Palau): A lively spot for dinner in town with all the local specialities.
• The View Sardinia: Great for dinner and good quality with a scenic outlook.
• Il Forno di Isule Surelle: Litte forno perfect to buy fresh take-away pizza for beach picnic

Hotels 🏠

We divided our stay into two very different vibes. We started with an Airbnb in Palau centre, which served as a convenient base for exploring the northeast coast and taking the ferry. For the final leg of the trip, we moved to a resort in Isola Rossa to prioritize relaxation and downtime before flying out.

Costa Smeralda ⛱️

The beaches here vary wildly in terms of vibe and cost. Liscia Ruja was beautiful but required driving down a long, non-terraced road and paying a premium for amenities. Beautiful but packed with upper-class tourist. Spiaggia Mannena was a more relaxed alternative with lovely sandbanks.

We also checked out Spiaggia del Principe, while the water was shallow and sandy, it was super windy and packed, so we just ate our takeaway pizza on the beach and left. We moved on to Spiaggia di Porto Mannu, which ended up being a hidden gem. Very quiet, pretty, and with an affordable beach club with all the facilities accessible.

In the evening, we headed to Porto Cervo for dinner and walk around. This town is famous for the jet-set rich frequentation, not really our thing but curious to see all the boats and luxury shops in a remote-ish place.

La Maddalena Archipelago 🏝️

We explored the islands by both car and boat. Taking the car on the ferry is easy, but access to some beaches like Cala Coticcio is restricted without a guide. We drove around the two island connected by a tiny bridge, and ended up at Spiaggia Testa Di Polpo for a swim and picnic, observing the beautiful rock formations.

We then headed to Cala Spalmatore for a beer with a view in a relaxed bar over the sea.

The following day we took a full-day catamaran tour to snorkel to explore the surrounding islands. We did various stops, both for the view and snorkelling, including the beautiful natural pools of Santa Maria. We also passed by the famous Pink Beach, though you can only view it from the boat.

On our last day, we went back to the island in an attempt to rent a boat for ourselves, but unfortunately the weather didn't allowed it, and even if so all the agency near the pier told us they were fully booked. So good tip is to check the wind forecast ahead of time, and pre-book!

Capo Testa 🤿

This area offered some of the most adventurous swimming. We drove to Cala Spinosa, where parking is tricky, but the 5-minute rocky hike down leads to a Seychelles-like cove where you can find amazing spots on the various rocks.

Afterward, we spotted Cala Francese from the lighthouse viewpoint. Since it looked protected from the wind, we rushed down and had our best snorkeling session of the trip, spotting moray eels in warm, calm water.

On the drive back, we made a quick stop at the Tomba dei Giganti to see the ancient medieval houses and dinner in Santa Teresa Gallura town that was great to visit for the chill vibes.

Isola Rossa Town 🌊

We ended our trip here at the Hotel Relax Torreruja Thalasso & SPA. This was all about unwinding, the holidays of the holidays! The hotel was fantastic with a great spa, pool, food options, and its own beach access. We didn't do much exploring during the day, but in the evenings we walked into the small town, which was surprisingly lively and fun. The beaches around here are great, but truthfully, the Costa Smeralda waters were much better. It was still the perfect chill way to end the holiday.

Overall Experience 🤓

Sardinia is undeniably beautiful. The water clarity is world-class, and the mix of hiking and swimming is great for active travelers. However, the experience can be mixed due to the high costs and the need for logistical planning around the wind and parking. It is a place that rewards preparation.

Hope this was helpful, you can ask us any questions on Instagram.